Archiv der Kategorie: Expat

Grape variety that has migrated from its homeland

2013 Malinger – Walporzheimer Pfaffenberg – Johannes Hostert

The second trip with our camper van was down to Mayschoß in the Ahr region. Quite near to Cologne this is a popular spot for short weekend trips.
We parked the van at the camper van site near the train station, lying between the Ahr river and a vineyard with a view on the Saffenburg castle ruins.
Drinking water and waste water emptying facilities are avaiable, as are some lots with electricity avaiable. Some lots, especially those with electricity are far from horizontal. Despite being close to the railway tracks and the main road it is quite quiet.

In this most northern wine growing region in Germany mainly red wine grapes are grown (86% in 2008) which is not what one would expect. Many winemakers produce stil blanc de noir wines, which makes sense if you are sitting in one of the many winery outlets, in the open sun. Our main reason for coming here were not the red wines, nor wines from the village of Mayschoß but a real rarity from neighbouring Rech.

Johannes Hostert owns a small vineyard in Walporzheim planted with over 90 years old, ungrafted Malinger grapes. Also known as Prècoce de Malingre, named after the guy responsible for creating the grape variety, a Parisian gardener. Early ripening it is said to have no real character.
According to Wine Grapes the grape is grown for the table as well. Mr Hostert seems to be the only man in the world producing a varietal wine.

After a short stop at the coop winery Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoß-Altenahr and a stroll on the Rotweinwanderweg to Rech I could finally get my hands on this rarity. On the terrasses of Weingut Johannes Hostert.
Malinger 2013 im Glas

A really light colour seemed to confirm the low character of the Malinger grape. A nice suprise on the nose with roasted hazelnuts and a lot of honey. Soft with low acidity with some residual sugars. With 11.5% I would have loved to taste a dry version as well. I bought a bottle for later to see if this one can take some time in my cellar…
Flasche Walporzheimer Pfaffenberg Malinger 2013

Serbian Wines Part 3 : 2011 Alma Mons, BeloBrdo

The unfortunately last but not least wine from   Samovino :

2011 Alma Mons, Winery Belo Brdo, Subregion Fruška Gora, Region Srem

This is a quite interesting blend of french varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and the new cross Marselan (Cabernet Sauvignon x Grenache Noir) which I have seen in some easy drinking reds from the Ardèche. Not a grape variety that I would have placed into the illustrious round of Bordeaux reds.

The owner, Aleksandar Zeremsk made his money importing wines to Serbia and planted his first grapes in 2006. The first wine made was from the 2010 vintage. The winery Belo Brdo translates as white hill, Alma Mons as nourishing hill. Maybe Alba Mons would have been better.

 

Poured into the glass: ripe black and blueberries. Cassis, plum followed by strawberry and grain yoghurt, milk chocolate, vanilla.

A good balance between body, tannins and acidity. Everything is up front but none is dominating the others. Plum fruit leather aftertaste.

Second day: Blackberry, plum and cherry constantly changing places. Oaky vanilla stronger than on day one.

Third day: Plum, Pepper. On the palate plum and strong cherry.

Fifth day: Watermelon, cassis, vanilla, blackberry. Still strong tannins. Tobacco and plum aftertaste.

This is already a brilliant wine but in the years to come one can expect even more due to aged vines.